Kwik Sew 3039

This is my version of the western shirt I'm making for my friend's 50th. I decided to make it for myself first, that way I won't have any unpleasant surprises in the construction! It's actually quite a quick shirt to sew once you've got those pesky alterations done. I absolutely love the yoke. It's not seamed but rather overlaid on the shirt front and back so no problems getting those points right. Plus you could leave it off if you prefer.

Adjustments:

• I used size L at the shoulders/neck  and tapered out to XL at the sides
• Took 2cm off the shoulder (it needs a bit more I think)
• 1cm high round back adjustment & shoulder dart
• Added 1.5cm to front shoulder tapering out to nothing at armhole & removed 1.5 from back (there's something going on with this adjustment and I suspect that the shirt is now too high in the back neck so maybe I should've left the back as it was)
• 2cm tuck across the front
• 2cm gaposis tuck taken from the front armhole
• 2.5cm dart added to front
• Shortened horizontal front darts
• Shortened the sleeves by 5cm

Apologies for the pic but the shirt is not 100% finished. I don't have any silver snaps so have to go and buy them. The shirt is pinned in the pic and not particularly straight! LOL.

 A close-up of the front and back yokes

I'm pretty happy with the fit although as I said, the pic is a bit funny. I can still see some problems but on the whole, it's good. I had an epiphany with the armhole gaposis. Whenever I make a shirt, I always get bias wrinkles pointing towards my girls even though I add a dart and it goes around them OK. I also get a gap in the armhole, above the girls. So when I made the toile, I pinned out the gap....and bugger me, the bias wrinkles disappeared as well (no doubt everyone already knows this!). Two for the price of one! I was ecstatic.